Tons of Clothing Are Sent to Landfills Every Year. But Some Groups Want to Change That.

REFASHION WEEK KICKOFF

Following the glamour of New York Fashion Week, a lesser-known but more environmentally friendly week starts: ReFashion Week. ReFashion, which took place between Feb. 22 and 28, was a week all about sustainability in fashion. The event was organized by donateNYC and the Foundation for New York’s Strongest as an initiative to reduce clothing waste. “Approximately 200,000 tons of clothing, shoes, linens, and accessories are sent to landfill every year” in New York City according to the event’s official website. 

During the opening event at the Brooklyn Army Terminal, there were vendors, a panel of speakers and even a DJ booth. As part of the panel, representatives from Depop, Eileen Fisher, Recycle Track Systems, INTURN as well as designer Heron Preston, spoke on the ways in which they and the industry can continue to move forward into a more sustainable future.

Rebecca Goldberg is the Director of Client Services at INTURN, a company which collaborates with other businesses to reduce excess inventory that goes unused in warehouses by rebranding to provide products with new life. In regards to their practice and input to movements like ReFashion Week she said “just think about taking another warehouse over and putting stuff in it just to sit there.” They believe there is potential to produce from a product which is kept away, “we don’t like to call it waste. It’s resources that we’re using to create a new product,” she said.

Goldberg’s understanding of “waste” as possibility was echoed through the panel and the rest of the events, along with the frustration that inspired their work. “I was swimming and there’s this plastic bag in the ocean. And at that moment, I realized that I wanted to do a collaboration for the environment using what I was really good at, which was screen printing and designing t-shirts.” said Heron Preston, fashion designer and Parsons alumni, in regards to how he was inspired to collaborate with the Department of Sanitation. The collaboration, UNIFORM: HERON PRESTON FOR DSNY, takes inspiration from sanitation workers’ uniforms while maintaining Preston’s signature sleek streetwear look. 

However it was not all about how big brand names and professional fashion designers are beginning to do their part. Steve Dool, Head of Brand Partnerships at Depop, encouraged people to take part. He said “there is power that comes with reinventing your style and wardrobe in a sustainable way.” Through Depop, “if you want to buy something different for your wardrobe, you can resell something you already have to get that money back, you’re not necessarily putting more and more into consuming new and new stuff.”

STOP ‘N’ SWAP

The Church of the Village teamed up with people ready to give old clothes to new homes at, environmental nonprofit, GrowNYC’s Stop ‘N’ Swap, an opportunity to donate, swap or simply take goods. GrowNYC organized a clothing-and-accessories-only swap for ReFashion Week. 

“We’ve asked people to bring donations of clothing and accessories, and then we’re sorting those items and putting them out so people can come and take things,” said Cordelia Alquist, the Stop ‘N’ Swap Coordinator. “And it’s all for free.” 

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The space had to be cleared quickly before a new crowd of people flooded the space, clearing racks as soon as they were filled. ReFashion Week stylist, Ashley Campbell, said that clothing swaps can be “a little work,” but in the end, the payoff is worth it. “I love picking up vintage and used clothing because it tells a different story,” she said. “I like to relive those stories.” 

While people went to Stop ‘N’ Swap to simply make space in their wardrobes and possibly find a hidden gem, others went to support the program’s sustainable cause. “I’m kind of trying to work on myself by only getting used clothes. When I think about the amount of clothing waste that I have—just me as one person—it really makes me sad and stressed out,” attendee Renae Wilson said. “There are already a ton of great things just out in the world.”

ESA DO + BREW

On Sunday, Feb. 23, at esa’s annual Do + Brew, an all-ages-welcome upcycling and mending party, spirits were high as fashion creatives and enthusiasts came together in their shared love of giving new life to old and unwanted clothing. 

Short for “evolving sustainable apparel,” esa is an education-based company that promotes circular fashion. Since 2017, Do + Brew has been their biggest event of the year. Although it might only seem like a laidback gathering over indigo dyeing and drinks, it has saved 1,369 pounds of clothing from landfills just last year, according to the company.  

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“The idea is to come together as a community,” Julia Valencikova, the organization’s co-founder, said. “This is an example of a really small solution that’s really impactful because I think we’ve already saved over a thousand pounds of clothing just from two hours alone.” 

Upon entering, attendees are greeted with the sound of whirring sewing machines and lively chatter over denim revamping, through to the clothing swap racks curated by some of the industry’s seasoned stylists. In addition to another mending table in the back room, there was a Postcards to Voters station, where people could send handwritten notes to voters encouraging them to vote. 

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Positive energy filled the space as guests danced, mingled and bonded over their newly-mended clothing. 100 percent operated and run by volunteers, esa is focused on raising awareness about the fashion industry’s impact on people and the environment through building a sense of community that is inclusive of all. 

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“Now that I know about Do + Brew, I want to come to every single one,” Hitomi Mochizuki, sustainable fashion YouTuber, said. “They’re just trying to make clothing swapping and secondhand fashion accessible to everyone.” 

ReFashion Week closed with a runway show of thrifted styles and upcycled designs on Friday, Feb. 28.The Foundation for New York’s Strongest and donateNYC hosts ReFashion Week annually to celebrate secondhand and sustainable fashion in New York City. The New School students can also stop by GrowNYC’s upcoming swaps on Mar. 7 in East Flatbush and Mar. 14 in Little Neck.