Additional reporting by Zoe Barnes
In the heart of SoHo, an empty studio transformed into a glowing canvas. Flickering candlelight danced across swaths of soft white and cream draped fabrics, casting a warm, intimate glow that bathed the second floor of Vandam Street. The serene yet charged atmosphere welcomed guests as they took their seats on wooden benches framing the runway. Flowing curtains cascaded from the ceiling, and the minimalist design, meticulously curated, set the stage perfectly for each designer’s vision to unfold for the evening.
On Sept. 21 at 8:30 p.m., the “First Look Runway and Pop Up Show Experience” made its anticipated return after its debut in November of last year. Organized by Strategic Design and Management fourth-year Zoë Waechter and second-year Pearl Zhang, the duo navigated the exclusive and often unattainable fashion industry — offering a rare platform for students and emerging designers to showcase their work.
Over the summer, Waechter and Zhang carefully curated a lineup of six designers: Cosette Di Ames, Emma Jayde, Emma Audrey, Ciara Fitzgerald, and Paloma Fernandez de los Muros. Waechter is also debuting her own collection under her brand, The Eighth.
This year’s collections explored themes of rebellion, empowerment, and the interplay of femininity and masculinity in womenswear, with community, a guiding force in the show’s conception, remaining the central pillar from start to finish. Here is a first look at “First Look.”
Waechter first crossed paths with Zhang during the inaugural show last year, where Waechter co-produced and showcased her designs, while Zhang joined as a designer. After the success of that event, Zhang — who was interested in the logistics of production — reached out again, eager to take on the role of co-producer.
With a focus on giving small, independent designers a platform, “First Look” embodied its mission. “That’s why our runway is called ‘First Look,’” Waecther said, highlighting their commitment to emerging talent making their first entrance into the New York fashion scene.
Having witnessed the transformative power of collaboration in last year’s production, Waechter and Zhang were determined to recreate that sense of community. “As fellow students, we wanted to help each other out,” Zhang said. The spirit of collective ambition became the driving force of the planning process. Every role was crucial. With the show entirely student-run, the momentum was marked by synergy and the shared pursuit of a dream.
By 5 p.m., the backstage atmosphere simmered with a mix of calm anticipation and creative frenzy. Models were mid-hair and makeup, being fitted into their looks for the very first time. Designers worked briskly, making final adjustments — sewing, refining, and perfecting garments down to the tiniest detail.
For many, this was their first taste of the runway, whether debuting as a designer, strutting the catwalk, stepping into a production role, or capturing a live show through the camera lens. Makeup artists worked meticulously, bringing each look to life and adding to the electric air. The excitement was palpable as everyone readied themselves for the evening ahead.
By 7:00 pm, models lined up for pre-show photos, fully transformed into their fierce, smizing alter egos. What began as a controlled frenzy backstage gave way to fierce determination as Waechter and Zhang conducted final rehearsals. The duo fine-tuned every aspect, from the pacing of the show to the poses, navigating last-minute challenges with precision.
As production assistants completed the final touches, the space transitioned from hurried movement to electric anticipation. The moment the doors opened, guests poured into the space, scrambling for seats — some fortunate enough to land on the benches, others left standing. Conversations merged with the flickering candlelight, as eyes darted around the room, phones poised and ready. Flowing curtains above caught the soft glow, drawing every eye toward one thing — the runway.
At last, with a final breath, the lights dimmed, and with the first pulse of rhythmic music, the evening began.
The opening collection, “Virgin Rouge,” by recent Parsons fashion design graduate Pamela Fernandez de los Muros, set the tone for the evening with her lace-laden, lingerie-inspired pieces that commanded the runway. Her collection explored the dual persons of the bride and the sex worker. A standout look featured a sheer black gown, paired with a matching veil and a dying bouquet of flowers, transforming conventional bridal imagery and societal norms into a reimagining of what it means to embody feminine strength. This juxtaposition challenged traditional notions of femininity and leaned into liberated, empowered expressions of womanhood.
Next, Emma Audrey Newman, a second-year fashion design major at Parsons, brought a gothic flair to the runway with her collection, crafted from ethically sourced, second-hand fabrics. Delicate lace and sheer fabrics shaped flowing silhouettes that embodied ethereal femininity, while subtle textures and intricate details added a defiant edge, blurring the lines between softness and strength. Models, with dramatic winged eyeliner, traced far beyond their eyelids, added a rebellious contrast to the soft, flowing garments. One model, in bold platform heels, contrasted the delicacy of her sheer, laced adorned top, creating an interplay of gothic rebellion and understated elegance.
Making her debut under her brand, The Eighth, Waechter’s collection delivered a striking balance of femininity and masculinity. With oversized blazers, tailored skirts, and the inclusion of a male model, the designs embodied androgyny, emphasizing form and fluidity over traditional gender norms. Structured silhouettes intertwined hard and soft elements, creating a collection that catered to the human form in all its beauty. Playing with neutral tones like white, gray, and black, the pieces offered a minimalist yet powerful aesthetic, marked by angular shapes and bold textures. One look featured a cropped blazer with a strong angular form paired with a voluminous white skirt, highlighting the contrast between structure and flow, while another design, modeled by a male figure, showcased precise tailoring with puffed sleeves. Another standout piece included a striking sheer black gown, its delicate fabric wrapping around the silhouette, perfectly balancing ethereal femininity with its bold, statement color.
Emma Jayde by Emma Purdy, a second-year fashion design major at Parsons, focused on handmade knitwear that merged the breezy, laid-back tones of her Californian roots with the edgy chicness of New York City. Knee-high boots paired with soft knitwear struck a balance between comfort and boldness, with form-fitting pieces that embraced the body’s natural lines. The collection embodied casual comfort with bold styling, while glistening makeup and sleek, minimalist hairstyles complemented its glamor, perfectly balancing laid-back ease with urban chic.
Ciara Fitzgerald’s floriography-inspired collection took the runway next, as models glided down the runway an almost meditative calm settled over the room. Drawing on the 19th century practice of using flowers as a symbolic language, the models’ movements, fluid and deliberate, brought the garments to life in a way that emphasized the delicate connection between nature, emotion, and memory. Flowing silks of gowns and short dresses in rich jewel tones — deep red, soft lilac, and serene blue amplified the ethereal mood, adding a poetic touch. One model’s lilac gown, embellished with a large, symbolic flower, captured both strength and fragility, inviting the audience to reflect on the evolving relationship between the natural world and the human psyche.
The show closed with Cosette Di Ames’ collection, a celebration of femininity and sensual empowerment. Soft, ethereal ruffles cascaded down each look, while blushing tones met white satin, redefining the idea that being powerful and sexy doesn’t need to rely on the dark or edgy. Intricate lace details and romantic silhouettes accentuated each model, weaving together the sophistication of delicate lingerie with the boldness of evening wear. Each piece embodied the philosophy that true strength lies in owning one’s sensuality — designed not for external validation but for the woman herself. “We create clothing for women, not their boyfriends,” noted Cosette Di Ames in their artist’s statement.
As the final model disappeared from the runway, cheers rang out, while applause echoed long after designers and models took their final walk. Cameras flashed, smiles widened, and backstage, the tension of preparation dissolved into a euphoric wave of celebration.
As the lights rose, Zhang and Waechter stepped forward, offering heartfelt thanks to an audience that had witnessed the culmination of months of effort. The evening’s success was shared by all — from designers and models to photographers, makeup artists, and production assistants — each playing a crucial role in the success of the night.
“Unless you have an insane budget, you can’t really put on these shows. But when you bring a bunch of people together, you not only talk about it, you make it happen,” Waechter said.
The evening wrapped with a celebratory pop-up shop, where the freshly debuted collections, available for purchase found their first admirers. Designers mingled with guests, basking in the well-earned praise. In a burst of pure joy, Waechter and Zhang embraced, dancing and laughing as the realization of what they’d achieved set in. The celebration extended beyond the runway as their vision came to life.
“I hope everyone enjoyed it, we put our hearts into it,” Zhang said.